The Story:

Bruno Lafon actually began his wine career in Meursault, but moved to the Languedoc for a new challenge (and better weather), back in 1998.

The estate now is in transition. For a long time, it was called ‘Domaine Magellan’. Now it is ‘Famille Bruno Lafon’ and they are working things differently. Instead of being a ‘typical’ domaine, farming and vinifying their own vines, they have a small amount of their own domaine, but they actually buy in a lot of grapes, from as far away as Limoux, to make their wines. It’s as bit like a Burgundian micro-negociant model; their carignan blanc, for example, is grown by Domaine Les Trois Pueches just up the road; their pinot and chardonnay come from Limoux. As such, although they are right in the middle of the Côtes de Thongue area, none of their wines comes under the ‘Côtes de Thongue’ category; some is AOP Languedoc; others are ICP de l’Herault and still others Vin de France.

Moreover, they want to be more than a winery. They have a big site near the centre of Magalas and they are reconfiguring the property so that it can be a party venue, as well as having a place to buy the artisanal herbs and vegetables they grow on site, with a new bigger tasting room and much, much more.

For the wines themselves, I only tasted a small selection. They have preserved the name ‘Magellan’ for the wines which come grapes on the land they own themselves. But then there are wines under ‘Le Maison Lafon’, as well as an entry level brand ‘Le Fruit Défendu’ and furthermore a bag-in-box brand ‘Responsable’, with good environmental credentials, using recycled material in the containers etc..

Of the red wines I tasted, the emphasis is keeping a lightness of touch, even in a traditionally ‘heavy’ area. Hence their Magellan Rouge, a traditional grenache syrah carignan blend, is quite complex but only 13.5%. However, in evading heaviness, they have perhaps lost a bit of fruity hedonism.

I wonder if their best stuff isn’t, in fact, their whites. Their Magallana (Price Band D) is a complex blend of picpoul, vermentino, grenache blanc, grenache gris and even a touch of carignan blanc. As well as the complexity, though, there is smooth drinkability, with serious cut through; a perfect summer white. Look out too for their Magellan white (Price Band C), a grenache blanc-rousanne blend, which is more opulent, but seriously enjoyable. A baby Chateauneuf du Pape blanc.