The Story:

If you mention to people that you are going to the Côtes de Thongue, even seasoned wine-lovers may not be familiar with it, but if there is one domaine that has achieved cut-through into global recognition, it is Domaine de la Croix Belle. A combination of passion for the terroir, commercial nous, and brilliance in the cellar has meant that it has a significant presence on the international stage.

In many ways, the entire region owes its existence to Jacques Boyer and la Croix Belle (see ‘History’), and it has been a flagship bearer for the region for decades. That said, while Jacques Boyer is still at the helm, there are considerable changes happening right now. In the last five years, la Croix Belle has acquired two other local domaines: one, Domaine de St Michel in Servian, has been acquired to service the supermarket demand for relatively simple wines, and another Chateau Coussan, which provides relatively high end versions of different grapes that are of comparable quality to the main domaine. Two decades ago, Croix Belle had a whole series of single varietal wines; now, apart from chardonnay and syrah, it focusses exclusively on blends and has forsaken the entry level wine market. It’s made a stake on assemblages and on quality.

And because it’s a flagship of the domaine, and in a sense represents the spirt of the region, one should perhaps start at the top. First created in the 1996 vintage, the No.7 rouge is a blend of no fewer than seven grape varieties (syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, mourvedre, cabernet franc and petit verdot.) It was joined a few years later by the No.7 white (viognier, muscat, sauvignon, chardonnay, grenache gris, muscat and carignan blanc). There’s a No.7 rosé too, which is gorgeous but I didn’t take an accurate note of the varieties. (All Price Band D)

If I were to choose one wine by which the Côtes de Thongue and its quality should be judged, I would pick La Croix Belle’s No.7 blanc. For one thing it tastes magical; a simply divine nose is followed by a complex, somewhat ethereal mingle of flavours on the palate. But the reason it exists is because of the decision back in the Eighties by the Syndicat to avoid going for Appellation status, and choosing to prioritise the freedom to blend according to their own will. You won’t find any other wine like it in France, not because the rest of France isn’t capable of producing it, but because the laws of French wine prohibit it from being made without being deregulated to the valueless category of ‘Vin de France’. So for me it embodies much of the spirit of this place; a freedom to break new ground.

Don’t ignore their mid-level wines, however, because they are usually worthwhile. Long term drinkers from this estate will see some things have changed in 2023. The name for their midlevel red, ‘Champ du Coq’, which for a long time was stocked by the Wine Society, has been changed to Camp del Gal, the Occitan word. Also, they have launched a new mid-level brand, called ‘Elysee’, after Jacque Boyer’s grandfather. The Elysee Blanc is an enjoyable blend of chardonnay, viognier and something extra (Price Band B) Their Champ de Lys white (Price Band C), a blend led by grenache blanc, but helped by viognier, chardonnay and sauvignon, is a great pleasure, with both perfume and lift, and their new Chateau Coussan Rosé (Price Band C), from syrah and grenache, is a classic, easy-going blend of its kind but with a little depth too.

From Chateau Coussan, the new premium wines are under the ‘Le Jardin’ brand, with both a red and a white version. I was particularly intriguied by the white, a blend of sauvignon blanc and grenache blanc, which is incredibly rich; the red is a straight syrah, and I respected its gravitas more than loved it. (Both Price Band D). What I really love with Chateau Coussan is that the veteran Boyer is still a vigneron at play, exploring new blends nearly fifty years after he made his first vintage.

Overall, I still feel the best red from here is their Cascaillou (Price Band D), a majority grenache, but with syrah and mourvedre as well, which is the equivalent of an excellent Chateauneuf du Pape. It’s not just high quality; it’s got the type of opulence that is very easy to like; this is a wine you could give to people who don’t know much about wine, but they will immediately get the idea that there’s definitely something to it beyond another bottle of Chilean red. (Price Band DD)