Name: Villa Delmas

The people: Two brothers, Fabrice and Jocelyn Delmas, who started the domaine in 2012; they had been tending the vines from 2005 and initially, they sold their grapes to the Cave Cooperative.

The Story:

 

It’s a tale of two halves. One half of this domaine is insanely innovative. Not many would have the courage to plant gewürztraminer in the Languedoc, but the Delmas brothers decided to have a go. “Why do what everyone else is doing? We want to be niche.”  The other half is deeply traditional. There’s a grenache syrah carignan blend, which is a classic Languedoc type, but more than that, they give Languedoc’s old workhorse, carignan, some serious care and attention. And I would suggest it’s for the two extremes that you should be investigating this young domaine.

The gewürztraminer (Price Band B) is fascinating; full of aromas, yet their main bottling is on the bone dry side of things. Imagine a typical i.e Alsace gewürztraminer, but then add some sun, but don’t let it hang too long on the vine, and this is what you get. Refreshing, and full but not crazily so; this experiment is definitely worthwhile. They also do a ‘vendange tardive’ (late harvest) gewürztraminer, called ‘L’inédit’,(Price Band D) which is lovely, in a very grapey way.

Their traditional Langeudoc grape blends are fine, but where you should start getting excited is when they get hold of their carignan. The main bottling is called ‘Carignan Méchant’ (Price Band B), from old vines and partly made with carbonic maceration. The ‘méchant’ must be reference to carignan’s bad reputation, for actually there’s a gorgeous purity of fruit to this. But where things start getting worth an aria or two is with their special 100% carignan cuvée, called ‘L’embuscade’ (the ambush) (Price Band DD). Only 666 bottles of this were made in 2020, and it’s extraordinary. I grant you, it’s not up everyone’s street; this a blockbuster; full volume, ‘turn it up to 11’, fully extracted, totally Parkerised carignan, and I loved it. It’s demonstration of just what this wonderfully generous grape can do, when you give it personal attention rather than leaving it merely to contribute some heft to a blend of something else. And, to be fair to it, this has a hint of grace too, alongside the fulsome fruit. The finish goes on forever.

They have just started planting mourvedre and are full of passion, joie de vivre and spirit of experimentation. Look out for this small domaine in the future.

  • Grapes planted (7):

    Red: syrah, grenache, carignan, marselan, mourvedre

    White: sauvignon, muscat, gewurztraminer

    How many hectares: 20, though only 10 go into domaine bottlings; the other 10 go to the Cave cooperative

    Annual Production: 40,000 domaine bottles; the rest for the Cooperative

    Price range: €7 to €35

    Places to purchase in UK: no UK distribution as yet.

    Star buy: Carignan Méchant €7.75

  • How to visit:

    Make an appointment – they are a small outfit so they don’t have an open cave – but the other alternative would be to turn up on a Friday or Saturday evening in the summer, where they have musical soirtées every week; there’s a lovely open bar next to the vines and I bet it’s a great atmosphere.

    Contact details:

    Villa Delmas, Route de Valros, 34630, St Thibery

    06 77 74 00 35

    Email: earldelmas@wanadoo.fr

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